venice in winter. oh yes!
and all because i happened upon THIS. that's when i knew.
and to prepare i already have my very own dog-eared copy of joseph brodsky's WATERMARK on my nightstand.
with this passage marked:
Hence my sentiment for water, for its folds, wrinkles, and ripples, and – as I am a Northerner – for its grayness. I simply think that water is the image of time, and every New Year's Eve, in somewhat pagan fashion, I try to find myself near water, preferably near a sea or an ocean, to watch the emergence of a new helping, a new cupful of time from it. I am not looking for a naked maiden riding on a shell; I am looking for either a cloud or the crest of a wave hitting the shore at midnight. That, to me, is time coming out of water, and I stare at the lace-like pattern it puts on the shore, not with a gypsy-like knowing, but with tenderness and with gratitude.
This is the way, and in my case the why, I set my eyes on this city.





























Ahhhhh!!! I'm so excited! Beautiful passage. Clever you. Can't wait!
Posted by: Chelsy | Sunday, September 16, 2012 at 08:06 AM
envy, envy and some more envy! how freaking incredible will that be?!?! ahhhh....at least I always can follow your adventures here! xo
Posted by: natalea | Sunday, September 16, 2012 at 08:08 AM
Love that article. Makes Venice in Winter seem totally irresistible. Can't wait to ride along in your suitcase, and peek over your shoulder as you wander and journal!
Posted by: Vicki in Michigan | Sunday, September 16, 2012 at 08:09 AM
That cemetery island that he mentions in the article - it's wonderful, and the vaporetto (bus boat) stops there. I walked around there one afternoon in September of 2004, so beautiful and hushed and timeless. The only bad thing was the mosquitoes, but I think they won't be a bother in winter. I got one of the 24 hour boat passes (not expensive) and rode up the Grand Canal at 11 o'clock at night, quietly sipping a beer, enjoying the crumbly buildings lit up from within. I got a few looks in passing from the other (locals) on the boat, and thought, "Hmm, perhaps one isn't supposed to bring a beer on the vaporetto?" Later on I found out, no problem with the beer. The problem was, I was drinking it straight out of the bottle like an American heathen. Even the homeless guy sitting by the gutter near the vaporetto stop had a glass to drink his bottle of wine from! So now you know - carry a glass at all times. You never know when the need may arise.
Posted by: Jane Bumar | Sunday, September 16, 2012 at 08:16 AM
Venice is one of the places I have longed to go. The idea of spending a year there (wouldn't that be terribly expensive?) would be wonderful. Although I think I'd leave town for most of Carnival and summer and see other places in Europe then... Are you going this December or next?
Posted by: Leanne | Sunday, September 16, 2012 at 08:32 AM
Please put me out of my misery and tell me WHEN!
Posted by: Odette | Sunday, September 16, 2012 at 08:39 AM
Many years ago I visited Venice in winter, spring and summer. it was not as idyllic as your picture as there are fleets of motorboats. After all the Venetians use the canals like roads. It does have a wonderful air of a different life fest away from the tourists and in winter it was easy to avoid them. Venice in the fog is perhaps best of all as it hides the detritus of modern life.
Posted by: Monica Smith | Sunday, September 16, 2012 at 09:01 AM
I've already booked my passage -- I'm coming with! Another great read about Venice is Marlena DeBlasi's A Thousand Days in Venice. I can't wait to see it through YOUR eyes!
Posted by: connie rose | Sunday, September 16, 2012 at 09:30 AM
I'm grabbing my passport! Can't wait to tag along. Thanks for inviting me.
Posted by: Amy in Texas | Sunday, September 16, 2012 at 09:30 AM
Ahhh! A place I've always wanted to immerse myself. It will be wonderful to finally see it thru your eyes, the only was I'll ever get to see it, I'm sure. Can. Not. Wait.
Posted by: Leslie | Sunday, September 16, 2012 at 09:36 AM
oh how exciting Mary Ann! I just read yesterday's and today's blog and let out a little yelp about your plans for a new online class. And some of it possibly in Venice? Wonderful, wonderful. Are you taking requests? If you are, please could you talk about impact? Your pages always pop out. Mine are more matchy matchy and I need a bit more oomph in my journals. Courage in other words. Maybe you can include some wise words about what makes a page striking and what works and what doesn't. And Venice! Expensive but unique! Hubby and I are planning on going in springtime for a long weekend, so I will follow what you do VERY carefully indeed - and copy shamelessly. Should you find any amazing journal-goodies-shops, please share!!!!!
Posted by: Margit | Sunday, September 16, 2012 at 09:43 AM
I see you have just enough room for me in the corner of your suitcase! Sure, I'd love to come! Thanks for asking. I'll just sit over here by the door with my bag until December.
Posted by: LJ | Sunday, September 16, 2012 at 09:44 AM
AWESOME. I am so excited. I'll just start packing now and while I'm doing that, I've pulled out my wings; they need to warm up a bit in order to make the long journey. ;)
Posted by: Susie LaFond | Sunday, September 16, 2012 at 10:24 AM
Details!!! That is all.
Posted by: Sara Berry | Sunday, September 16, 2012 at 10:40 AM
Ohhhh nice!! Someone already mentioned Marlena DeBlasi's, A Thousand Days in Venice - I second that recommendation! And have you read Donna Leon's books ? If not, start at the first in the series, Death at La Fenice - so good!
Posted by: Lorraine | Sunday, September 16, 2012 at 11:11 AM
Can't wait. Flat Cadburry is packing a hooded Opera cloak, just for effect, and of course a Venetian mask, and floatable sunglasses. Now if you just get the video course done, I will have my journal all ready!
Posted by: violet cadburry | Sunday, September 16, 2012 at 11:42 AM
Am reading the Midwife of Venice by Roberta Rich. Soooo good. Perhaps you will have a chance to pick it up before you set out.
Posted by: Playing Hopscotch With Heather Willms | Sunday, September 16, 2012 at 12:15 PM
thanks for the post. thanks for the beautiful photo of venice. thanks for the poem. thanks for the anticipation.
have you read vivaldi's virgins by barbara quick? loved it.
Posted by: john hammons | Sunday, September 16, 2012 at 12:36 PM
Venezia!!! How wonderful, Mary Ann! It's a very special city! Make sure you bring the tallest boots you can....like above your knees! I was there in November a few years ago and it rained overnight and throughout the day. That afternoon we had to either walk in the high waters covering the sidewalks or walk on benches a few inches wider than picnic benches. They are put out when the sidewalks flood and it was so interesting to see, as well as, challenging! AND WE GOT LOST! Do not trust the maps, they are so confusing. However, it was fun to get lost and end up in a museum. While in the museum, I found a poster that I wanted to buy in their gift shop. They were out of it. We wandered away and the rains poured down. We looked in a window and inside an artist was painting away. She motioned us in, to escape the rain. We had a great conversation and in looking around at her paintings, I was blown away....on her wall was the very original of the poster I tried to buy at the museum! It is now in my possession, along with some great memories. I love Venice and have always wanted to return one day. Now thanks to you, I can fulfill that dream and tag along! Yahoo!!! Thank you!!!
Posted by: Suzanne | Sunday, September 16, 2012 at 01:25 PM
One of my alltime favorite cities. She is like an old lady with lace and pearls and pancake makeup and lipstick lodged in the wrinkles around her mouth. You will love her. And she is a great place for a single traveler who likes to walk and eat and drink and peoplewatch. Anticipation of this should carry you nicely over the hotcoals of first grade?????
Posted by: Sharon W | Sunday, September 16, 2012 at 01:41 PM
It's sounds as if you'll need to draw your own map of Venice. Was that practice in your journal? I can see you now filling some lovely bottles with canal water!
Posted by: Shar Ulm | Sunday, September 16, 2012 at 01:48 PM
i was in venice once, for one day, a very gray and rainy day. I walked around and got lost all by myself and had lots of good thoughts and drank a hot chocolate that seemed pretty much like a melted chocolate bar. wonderful memories.
excited to watch along with your adventures!
Posted by: katie | Sunday, September 16, 2012 at 01:54 PM
First of all, Leslie, never say never as you never know what could happen and someday you may get to see Venice through your own eyes. That is what I wish for you! Mary Ann, I was in Venice in 1975 and that city was my first stop in a 3-week tour of Italy with my Greek aunt. My entire time in Italy was a wonderful experience. From Venice to Capri (and everything in between) I was captured by all the sights, sounds and tastes I experienced. I highly recommend the country. I know you'll have a wonderful time! I'm looking forward to the journal that emerges from your trip there. The Italians were lovely when I visited. I hope they are the same when you are there. Is your sister coming with you?
Posted by: Barbara I. | Sunday, September 16, 2012 at 02:31 PM
Venice in winter is wonderful. We did it in November, and yes, we had some torrential rains but still...it was relatively quiet and easy to explore. Donna Leon's Inspector Brunetti novels give you a great flavor for the Venetian life. Your trip will be Wonderful!
Posted by: Maureen | Sunday, September 16, 2012 at 05:10 PM
Been there 3 times...a magical place.......
Posted by: Jenny | Sunday, September 16, 2012 at 05:40 PM
Lovely - you pick the most wonderous destinations - this will be a great winter adventure. looking for my passport!
Posted by: Robin | Sunday, September 16, 2012 at 05:52 PM
You will love Venice in winter! We went in February (after Carnivale) several years ago and had the time of our lives. The paper stores will blow you away. Be sure to find one called Linda Gonzales, kitty corner from the La Fenice Opera House plaza. Wonderful small shop - she makes the paper and the journals and her French husband sells them. Full of papery goodness. Hope it's still there - this was in 2005. Venice is truly magic, hundreds of tiny winding streets, crossing bridges over canals, and everywhere - no traffic noise, just footsteps and church bells.
You'll have the time of your life, can't wait to follow your adventures here on the blog.
Erin in Morro Bay
Posted by: Erin Perry | Sunday, September 16, 2012 at 06:11 PM
Oh my, I have such fond memories of this floating city!! You are in for a treat!!!!!
Posted by: Liza_kjs@hotmail.com | Sunday, September 16, 2012 at 06:54 PM
Such a magical place! Take waders!
Posted by: Carol Weiler | Sunday, September 16, 2012 at 07:07 PM
Yayyy!!! Happy news. That excerpt is mesmerising. What an interesting book and article too. Leave it to you to go visit an almost cliché city in the least cliché way possible. Venice in winter, very compelling. Can't wait!
Posted by: Vanessa | Sunday, September 16, 2012 at 10:02 PM
Clapping and cheering over here! Wonderful! Enjoy your preparations for and dreaming about this place. Sounds magical to me!
Posted by: Caatje | Sunday, September 16, 2012 at 11:46 PM
Venice is my most favourite place in the entire world. Send big loves from me to the icecream, the vaporetti's, the leather bags, the sunsets in St Mark's square, to Harry's bar....
Posted by: alison richardson | Monday, September 17, 2012 at 03:11 AM
We went in October of 2005, and that was a good time period. I would never go to Venice in summer. Too hot, too humid and way too much tourists. I loved the Doge's palace with its mezzanines and hidden passageways. I loved Venice. I am sure that you will have a wonderful trip when you go in December. Italian cemeteries are weird peaceful places where it's good being. Can't wait for you to go to Venice!
Posted by: photocatseyes | Monday, September 17, 2012 at 06:10 AM
Rent "Summertime" Kathryn Hepburn and Rossano Brazzi - beautifully photographed all in Venice and Murano. The penzione was wonderful and is authentic from what I've read.
I've been to Venice twice (lost many times) and loved it both times and consider it the best place I've been. I agree with the article's author - it is true happiness to be semi-lost in Venice.
Posted by: bkgodding | Monday, September 17, 2012 at 10:15 AM
bkgodding - first thing i did when i decided to go to venice was watch SUMMERTIME. oh it is fabulous! watched it twice. might watch again. i highly recommend to anyone who hasnt seen it.
Posted by: Mary Ann Moss | Monday, September 17, 2012 at 10:36 AM
I'm already living somewhat vicariously through your travels anyway but now you are going to my favourite place in the world. I'm there! :) Now I am wondering about your journal and what colours and patterns you will chose for this undertaking. Perhaps pea green to highlight viewer envy, LOL! Enjoy, it will be the best yet I'm sure.
Posted by: Kim | Monday, September 17, 2012 at 12:38 PM
fabbo and we get to come too, awesome!! Mx
Posted by: margaret | Monday, September 17, 2012 at 12:56 PM
i agree, the movie Summertime is so wonderful!!!!!
Posted by: julie macneil | Monday, September 17, 2012 at 01:35 PM
I'm my gosh, what a great trip and I get to come along, oh happy days. Will watch movie
Posted by: Peggy McDevitt | Monday, September 17, 2012 at 04:30 PM
Lovely quote. Exciting new trip to look forward to. :)
Posted by: Judy H. | Monday, September 17, 2012 at 06:09 PM
The Venice of my young and foolish days ... superb in November .... where men lunge forward to light your cigarette and follow you on to trains to make the journey with you. My next favorite place to the Greek Islands. Tourists have left for warmer climes, the city will be yours. Enjoy. My heart travels with you. xoDonna
Posted by: donna, doni, lady d | Monday, September 17, 2012 at 08:41 PM
Venice in December - how awesome is that - sign....
Posted by: Tina | Thursday, September 20, 2012 at 02:47 AM