Dispatch From LA

Roman Holiday

April 27, 2008 12:50 pm Rome

The weather is perfect. Sunny and warm. Blue skies, but of course no blue sea. Waaaa. We sit in the shade of a small unknown side street and write on our postcards while we wait for nourishment to arrive.

We've spent the day so far meandering across the city, finally landing in S. Ignazio di Loyola where we heard a choir of boy angels rehearsing for a concert. A stroke of sheer luck. Their voices rose and fell all around us, pure and clear.

We've visited more churches than we can keep track of. Each offers something slightly different to see and most have only a few visitors inside. The outside can be dull and grey, but the insides are impossibly ornate. Every surface gilded with gold, life-like statues of the saints springing to life behind every marble column, and splashy frescoes creating optical illusions on the domed ceilings. At each church we sit in polished pews and marvel at the lavish decor.
Later, we reached the Trevi Fountain where we giggled like school girls, tossed coins over our shoulders, and snapped photos of ourselves. Some cliches are meant to be enjoyed.

April 28, 2008 3:52 pm Sunday at Giolitti's eating Rome's best gelato (!)

Sat on the Spanish Steps to absorb more Roman ambiance, although with all the tourists it's doubtful we accomplished much other than to see the splendid pink azaleas overflowing from every container. Lovely. Still, there are plenty of places in this ancient city to lose oneself on narrow streets and become absorbed in SEEING. Especially in the early morning and at night Rome opens wide and offers itself up to hours of aimless strolling. Next, we headed directly to the Tiber and Via Umberto bridge where sister lay atop the bridge to rest for a spell.

The river is a glassy green and slow moving. Small bands of ducks float around. Sea gulls cackle overhead laughing at our self-timer photo tricks. With 3 guidebooks, 5 maps, and a good pair of KEENS a lot of Rome can be seen. A good day of wandering.

hot ricotta cake fresh from the oven anyone?

A Coast Towering Over The Sea

April 25, 2008 noon ish Friday

"Quite close to Salerno there is a coast towering over the sea that the inhabitants call della Costa Amalfitana, full of small villages, gardens and fountains. Among these there is one called PRAIANO."

Another lemony blue day iin Praiano. Right at this moment neighboring men are calling back and forth to each other across the hillside. Standing on their terraces and chatting in the way only Italians can do. All words ending on an upnote.

Carol just returned from a hike up to an old convent. 3x the stairs of yesterday to La Gavitella! The views were fabulous, she reported. A report of said adventure is all I need. I have planted myself here on the bottom terrace under the bamboo pergola from which I receive the perfect amount of filtered sunglight.

There is a lemon tree winking at me directly to my right/front and I have no need to leave. EVER. It's our last day on the Amalfi Coast and I want to soak up every drop of enchantment I can wring out of Le Arcate - our villa by the pearly blue sea, which today is as calm and still as a mirror shining up to the sky.

A sailing boat, ferries, and other sea craft are gliding along far down below. Journal materials are scattered across the wooden slatted table. I have paper, pens, books, water, coffee, sunglasses, camera, and poncho. Going to the bathroom is the only good reason I can see for moving.

April 25, 2008 10 pm ish

We just returned from a short stroll to the lookout point down the street.

Was it already 5 days ago that we saw the fog rolling down below, covering everything in milky white sheets of mist? We sat on the stone benches built into the curve of the wall and looked out at the twinkling lights of Positano on the far shore. All the little villages bright clusters of tangled starlight under the black sky. What a safe place. A good place. A fine place to implant wondrous experiences of childhood. I imagine all the townspeople tucked into their plump beds, safe and warm in their sleeping and dreaming. Heads nodding off on storybook pillows. Drifting off to a land of talking birds and giant animals.

Thank you for indulging me this: the world's longest travel report. I've answered a few questions in the comments section. I am NOT in Italy now. I DID make it back up the down staircase. I DID NOT travel with my sewing machine, although Stephen I will take you up on your offer for next year's trip as my baggage porter. A couple of posts about Rome and this episode of travel blogging will conclude. xo

Lungfuls of Lemony Air

April 24, 2008 1 pm ish Thursday

Today I have stayed behind to enjoy "doing nothing" at this enchanting villa by the sea. Carol went for a little hike earlier up more stairs and around a cliff. My calves were still complaining from yesterday's climb down the world's longest steepest staircase so I hung back to sit in the sunshine, read, write, and think. I could sit and stare out a the bright vast horizon and open luminous sea for years and years, centuries, and not get tired of the view. It's good to sit and breathe in lungfuls of lemony air. Soon we will go into town for some gelato and a stroll down to the lower part of Praiano - Vettica Maggiore.

April 24, 2008 6:40 pm

Mama Mia! In the afternoon Sister and I headed down to San Genaro, the church with the majolica tile floors.

This little neighborhood church is my favorite so far and today there were roses, amaryllis, iris, calla lily, and other flowers decorating all of the altars.

From here we decided to explore the walkways leading to the sea. 300 steps down and back. The walk down was exceptionally fabulous and we passed many vegetable gardens.

One in particular being tended as we strolled by on a walkway just above.

A handsome older fellow with white hair and skin browned by the sun, digging in espresso-colored earth. We stood above him and could smell the soil. So fertile! This is the land of the mighty fig, olive, and lemon. All growing there in the the dark loamy earth on terraces overlooking the blue blue sea. I imagine the contentedness a gardner in the Amalfi Coast must feel being a steward of land as magical and wonderous as this!
We encountered only 1 couple (toting a baby buggy!) on the long way down to the tiny beach and sea wall. There were many spots to rest and take in the quiet blustery day. I tried not to think of the climb back up. Sister scouted the path ahead and kept calling back, "We're almost there! Only a few more stairs! You can do it!" Without a personal coach I would have given up after the first 100 steps. At last we reached the bottom and unbelievably a fine restaurant spread out on a terrace above the sea wall. We paused for lemon sodas overlooking wild crashing turquoise water.

Ravello

April 20, 2008

Late in the afternoon great sheets of fog blew in from the sea and everything was completely covered in swirling drifting clouds of fog. The fog was still thick at night when we strolled into Praiano for dinner at Le Brace. As we walked down the hill in the fading light we could see that lower Praiano was completely shrouded in thick white fog. A shelf of fog about 300 feet down blanketed water and land. Half of Positano was visible and lights were twinkling, but the lower half was wiped out by the thick fog. It looked like we were in the sky walking on top of clouds. With the bright moon overhead and the sharp line of rolling fog below the effect was otherworldly. So mysterious! So lovely! Some of the local townspeople had climbed the hill we were walking down to look out over the bay and down on the bank of fog lit up by the moon.

April 23, 2008 Wednesday noon, Balcone di Lucile - Sitting at a table on a wide lawn overlooking the sea, which today is the color of slate blue and aqua green patchwork. In your mind you know such places with beauty this ripe exist, but when the book is open and the images are pulled out one by one and set in front of you it's difficult to imagine they are real.

Our iced coffee cocktails just arrived in martini glasses. We ordered the Mediterraneo which consists of espresso, zucchero, limoncello, buccia d' arancia, and crema di latte. Milky tasty bliss. And a white tableclothed table to sit and record every detail.

We took the morning SITA bus back to Ravello and this time were delighted to avoid the Mt. Kilimanjaro staircase leading to the 2nd bus. Adding to our positive attitudes (aside from the fact that we are in Italy), the sun came out and our jackets have been stowed away in our purses. We are here at Villa Cimbrone to see the outstanding gardens & grounds.

100% lovely and amazing.

Later we'll stop for lunch then down to Minori on the world's longest staircase we'll go.

April 23, 2008 Spectacular views across the mountains and valleys lush with groves of lemon, olive, and fig trees. Vegetable gardens filled with lettuce, cabbage, every imaginable green edible growing thing.

Even the ground under the grape vines is planted. A giant fruit and vegetable basket built into the terraced hills. The curving paths cling to steep slopes with so much green you cannot take it all in. When we finally make it to Minori it is late afternoon. Sister is ready to climb back up, but the descent has exhausted me. I stare at her and blink, then drag myself to a bench and try to decide what is wrong with her. One last long staircase down into Minori and we catch the bus back home along the coast road.

The Villa Cimbrone

The Villa

April 19, 2008

Back at Floridiana we bid farewell to Agnes and lugged our suitcases all the way up to the parking garage. What a job! I huffed and puffed my way down the stairs and up the narrow street to the parking garage. Was overjoyed with relief to get Gianluca in my crosshairs. A quick pet of a shaggy sheep dog named Henry and we were off with sister at the wheel. Back down the permit-only pedestrian walkway and out onto the treacherous coast road towards Praiano. 20 minutes to drive 12 kilometers. THAT'S how narrow and twisted the road is. The drive there was easy enough, but finding the villa had us chasing our tails. We drove up one narrow street after another and finally arrived at a beautifully scenic dead-end with about 4 inches to turn around in. All that separated us from going over the cliff and down into that vast blue sea was a ridiculously flimsy white iron fence. I closed my eyes, kept my mouth shut, and hoped the car would not choose now to pop out of automatic into manual and lurch forward. Sister got us back on the right path, but not without profuse palm sweating and gritting of her teeth.

We stopped to ask directions twice with a combination of sign language and pointing to the map. Once they were given in Italian by a kind man holding a baby, and later by an older man and woman tending their gardens by the side of the road. We didn't understand them, but we appreciated their enthusiasm in wanting to help. Eventually we met up with Fortunata and 62 Via Umberto Prima.

Tonight we cooked fusili with roasted tomatoes and freshly grated parmesean bought at the small grocer down the street. Also fresh salad and rustic rolls that make my heart sing. Sister drank her wine and I sipped my Prosecco in front of the big wooden table we've moved in front of the french doors. All this while watching the full moon, spotlight-bright, rise up over the water.

April 20, 2008

Slept late and piddled around all day in the hot sun on the terraces.

There are many chairs to choose from and I intend to sit in every one of them.

We began with breakfast. Deep red strawberries and Italian coffee. The plain yogurt is delicate and sweet.

Took all of our journal supplies to the side terrace and spread everything out on the table. Sister has made wise use of the broiler pan in the oven to tote our stuff around. Filtered sunlight came down through the bamboo pergola. The geraniums, begonia, and lemons hanging fat on the tree are jewel-like set against the blue backdrop of sea. Yellow, red, hot pink lighting up the terrace like Christmas lights!

In the late afternoon we relocated to the front terrace.

Our American Airlines ponchos are proving to be quite useful in the cool mornings and evenings.

Recording all of these entries while sitting in such luxurious surroundings is a rare experience and one I will remember for a long long time. Just now as I right this at the dining room table in front of the glass doors, a full moon in a lightly clouded sky is glittering on the dark water.

I incorporated a small folder Randi made me for my birthday into the travel journal. Perfect to store extra postcards and receipts.

The Sirens

April 19, 2008
Today was our last day with beloved Agnes at Hotel Floridiana in Amalfi. We checked out early, but left our bags behind to pick up along with the car later. Off we went to catch the 10:45 ferry over to Positano. The views all along the coast were straight out of a movie. The sunny day turned the sea from gunmetal grey to glowing turquoise light.
Off in the distance the Li Galli islands are visible. Here is where, Homer tells us, the Sirens called out to Ulysses, tempting him on his way back home. They tempt me now. If I go there what will I see?

The mountains drop sharply into the water. So dramatic! All of the villas, shops, churches stacked up wherever they could find room. Blue lagoons, tiny beaches, and remnants of stone guard towers can be seen up and down the coast. Leftover treasure from Amalfi's seafaring republic. We passed Praiano. Oh, I want to know - which villa is ours?!

We rode the ferry for 30 minutes to reach Positano. The buildings here are brightly colored. The steep hillsides are shades of sherbet - everywhere cubes of yellow, deep orange, white, pinkish, russet, apricot, peach. Beautiful blocks one on top of the other. Stacked high. The candy store of the Amalfi Coast.

Dogs trotted up and down the beach, cats too - more carefully of course.

We had climbed about halfway when I spotted Le Sirenuse. Having heard Samantha Brown rave about it on her travel show I wanted to see for myself. It was an opulent hotel! Rich. I felt like a bull in a china shop. We sat on a spectacular poolside terrace overlooking the endlessly blue sea.

The white of the building against the blue water and sherbet houses was BEAUTIFUL. Another I-am-in-a-movie-starring-me moment. 2 drinks were ordered. For Sister, the house drink: Le Sirenuse, for me freshly squeezed lemonade with its own little pot of syrup sweetener.

We sat and sipped and eavesdropped on an old fellow of about 80 spin tales of intrigue and adventure to an eager reporter who jotted down notes and leaned in close. My mind drifted to things real and imagined. Who was this fellow? From snippets of conversation I have it narrowed down to one of two professions: photographer or spy. I MUST know.

And The Rain Came Down

April 18, 2008

Swirling grey skies, cool moist air, and intermittent showers. Our vague plans to go to Ravello on the bus and walk down to Minori were dashed! Hopping the ferry to Positano seemed unwise in the choppy silver water. Being in the middle of an Italian dream of paradise meant that none of that mattered. "RAIN SCHMAIN!" we shouted and headed out to parts unknown. First stop The Duomo to explore its mysteries, but not before climbing all 63 wet steps to the top.

In the late morning we left the Piazza dei Dogi and headed up Salita San Nicola dei Greci - a series of staircases that led straight up to the top of Amalfi by the sea.

A curved even walkway ran the length of a cliff with houses built into its sides.

Mediterranean plants are tucked into every crack - salvia, sage, euphorbia, and many many more. Foamy sprays of blue, burgundy, yellow, and grey all along the walls.

There were gorgeous views of gunmetal grey sea which was churning in the light rain showers. All the boats rocked back and forth in the open water.

Windy, cool, and wet, the smell of chicken soup wafting over from someone's kitchen. One woman ran down the walk I am picking my way so carefully across, skipping down steps and under wooden trusses set along the high wall. Occasionally the sky opened and a little rain poured out. We stopped. For pictures made in the camera, and our minds which are full with LOOKING.

All the way we walked to the road tunnel then down one last staircase to the sea front and breakwater and a tiny shop where I bought 13 tiles that spell out "Moss Cottage" in the Amalfi style font. A good way to spend a lovely grey morning in Italy.

I am enjoying reliving my trip as I add the photos into the travel journal then share them here. Fortunately I have another week of vacation from school before I return to the classroom. I feel grateful to have experienced a small part of Italy and intensely content to pore over the writing and photos now.

A Living Postcard

April 17, 2008 3:25pm Sitting on a sea wall with back against brick and stone wall. Tyrrhenian Sea crashing all around.
Using part intuition and part Amalfi walk book by Julian Tippett, we picked our way like a couple of old mountain goats over many steps, under, through, and between houses all the way to where we sit now: Atrani, lovely village by the sea.

Must have been 1000 steps up and down until our legs vibrated with wild spasms. I went much further than I thought I could with no ill effects so far. (crosses fingers does sign of cross) The views along the way were of sunlight glinting on sea water the color of aquamarine lit from the inside. Further out one hundred shades of blue ranging from silver to navy.

But the sea is only the backdrop to scene after scene opening in front of our eyes. Narrow stone footpaths shared with donkeys and only a few people,

but not in the country - HERE in a village with people living, eating, breathing, cooking behind every beautiful doorway.

Here mounds of pink bee balm or butterfly bush, there a small perfect geranium with partially opened flower, dandelion boquets sprouting from ancient walls. And across the village the dome of the tiled basillica. Green and yellow tiles shining in the sun.

Fig trees framed in blue. Mountainous coastline spread out below. A living postcard.

I do not travel to see monuments or museums or to shop. I came here to see THIS. To be HERE on this path walking from one village to the next. Breathless, wonderous, alive.

Some random glimpses into my travel journal. Thank you for the enthusiastic welcome home! The comments have been very dear. Today I began to slowly add photos into the trip log. Bigger rings are needed!

The Road

April 16, 2008 10:15 p.m. Amalfi, Italy

Not gone to sleep yet! Couldn't get a wink of sleep on plane even though Dopey & Sleepy in front of us were conked out the entire trip. Here is where I begin to tell the major obstacles and how we overcame them and lived to eat a delicious plate of fried eggplant with tomatoes in a cozy restaurant filled with laughing Italians singling songs and living la vita pazzesca. In 5 brief chapters.

Our first stop was Amalfi and the charming, inexpensive, completely fabulous Hotel Floridiana. Trip Advisor was right on the money about this place. It exceeded our expecatations!

Chapter 1: The Flight - Time was lost. I'm still confused.
Chapter 2: Locauto or Our Rental Car Cannot Be Found - Wild goose chase #1 Theme song: Trouble. Cell phone doesn't work. No, it works we just don't understand the rapid fire Italian directions. Janitor in airport tries to help. Gives up. Shakes his head hands us back the phone.
Finally met nice Mormon family who took us under their large wings and guided us to safety (or at least to the rental car place which is NOT in the airport). Got car. Got inside. Don't understand gearshift. Didn't we rent an automatic? Press here, move this up, keep foot on brake, hold down, GO. It's manual AND automatic. Who knew?

Chapter 3: The Road - soundtrack: Herb Alpert - Tijuana Taxi . Holy crap whose idea was this to drive in Rome after not sleeping for 24 hours. Must have been Sister's. She'll have to drive while I take pictures. Are there 2 lanes or 3? Hard to tell. Nerve wracking. I can touch the cars speeding past. Does this mean they're too close? Glad I'm not driving.

Original frescos in the breakfast room of our hotel which is in a restored villa.

Chapter 4: Finding Floridiana - The narrow entry into traffic-free permit only zone we don't have permits for is v.v. narrow. I jump out of car and get permission to enter from nice traffic cop who stops oncoming cars to let us squeeze through. Throngs of people all the way up to the 4 green garage doors. Sister collapsed upon arriving. Where is Gianluca? Where is the hotel? Do you think we have to carry the suitcases up those steep steps with 16 inch risers? Sister, I know you just drove us here, but do you think you could heave ho the cases up the stairs while I take pictures?
Chapter 5: La Perla - smoked mozzarella, tomato, rocket (greens) pizza and side of fried aubergines and bottle of Prosecco = spectacular! Restaurant with yellow walls is filled to the brim and lively! We found it hidden in walled alley of Amalfi. Coconut gelato after dinner shared with Sister on steps of Duomo.

Did we accidently drive through Naples? I thought we weren't supposed to do that? The Bay of Naples is SPECTACULAR. All the blue revives us. We drive on.

There is so much to say and show! I decided to use my travel journal to tell the story. Seems easiest this way. The only parts not taken directly from my travel journal are in italics. I hope you're ready for the world's longest trip report over the next week or so because I am prepared to deliver it!